Beautiful, clear, and in the 50’s as we get back onto the Haines Highway and head north. We’ll cover about 215 miles today. Arriving in Haynes Junction we had breakfast at a little café, got gas, and some groceries at Madleys General Store which is a landmark. Haines Junction is the gateway to Kluane National Park which is considered one of Canada’s best. Haines Junction is really a service stop and not much else. However, we had to take a picture of the Village Monument known as ‘The Muffin’.
This is where we turn onto the Alaska Highway. The route is Yukon 1, as we are in the Yukon and not Alaska, are you confused yet….I was! Any way up the Alaska Highway (known as the Alcan). The highway winds through the Kulane National Park where the summits of 7,000 to 9,000 ft Kluane Mountain Range parallel the highway. The St. Elias Mountain Range is just to the west and contains many of Canada’s highest peaks. Today is pretty much about scenery and a few stops on the way.
Our 1st gradual climb was to Bear Creek Summit. On the way we passed thru the Spruce Beetle Interpretive Trail. The Spruce Bark Beetle infested the forest and devastated the Black Spruce trees. Soon we reached the summit of Bear Creek (3294 ft) which is the highest point on the Alcan between Whitehorse and Fairbanks. We passed several crystal blue lakes nestled in the spruce trees. The Kluane Range presents a nearly unbroken chain of mountains interrupted by only a few large valleys cut by glacier-fed rivers and streams. Mt Logan, Canada’s highest peak, at 19,545 ft towered over us as we passed in it’s shadow.
After a steep windy grade we crossed Christmas Creek and began another climb to Boutillier Summit the 2nd highest point on the highway. Stopping at the Kluane Lake viewpoint we got our first glimpse of the largest lake in the Yukon. Kluane Lake covers about 154 square miles. The lake is a fantastic glacial green/blue and the color is magical. We read the historical signs at the viewpoint learning how the Kaskawulsh Glacier closed the drainage outlet of the lake. The water level rose more than 30 feet and reversed the lake’s drainage. Instead of the water traveling south to the Pacific Ocean a new channel was cut to connect with the Yukon River system. It began a trip 10 times longer north to the Bering Sea.
Just before Sheep Mountain Interpretive Center we encounter our first minor road construction. We slowly traveled the loose gravel and dry dusty road, Fortunately the turn into the Sheep Mountain parking lot was close. The southern slopes are primary winter and spring lambing area of a Dall sheep population. Using the scopes we just caught a group of Dall Sheep at the top of the mountain before they headed over the top of the mountain to graze. We talked with a ranger and learned a lot about the sheep.
Continuing up the highway we soon reached Destruction Bay, population 55, on the shore of Kluane Lake. It’s one of many communities that grew out of the building of the Alcan. Destruction Bay was a supply relay station built during the construction of the Alaska Highway. It got its name after a violent storm destroyed buildings and much of the construction materials that were stored there.
Next we rolled through Burwash Landing, one of the oldest settlements in the Yukon. This is the traditional home of the Southern Tutchone people of the Kluane First Nation. The community will celebrate it’s 106th anniversary this year. There is a post office, community hall and several businesses offering a variety of services.
We had been warned by other travelers about the section of the Alcan between Destruction Bay and the US Border just past Beaver Creek. I’ll say we were prepared, but were still amazed and shocked at what lay ahead of us. We have now experienced Alaska driving loose gravel, dirt, dust, orange caution flags everywhere identifying frost heaves 6 inches deep, cracked road and dips that look like roller coasters! We also got to experience the “clowns” in cars and 40ft Rvs who drive 60 MPH as they can hardly stay on the road! One Class A motor home passed us over dips and broken road wobbling from side to side.. I think the ‘A’ stood for something else. Todays trip was long and tireing because most of the time we could only drive 20 MPH and sometimes less.
This whole area is in bad need of rain Many of the rivers are very dry due to the lack of snow melt this year. After crossing the Donjek River we are traveling through forest, sub alpine valleys, past lakes, over clear creeks and past marshy bogs. The scenery is constantly changing. About 20 miles before Beaver Creek we gave in to the road and decided it was time to look for a campground. We found the Snag Junction Yukon Government Campground and pulled into site 5 next to a small lake. After getting set up we collapsed into our chairs by the lake. Peaceful, quiet, and there is only one other motor home here.
After a while we got dinner. Tonight we had the Halibut Cheeks on the grill with butter, salt & pepper. They were terrific. It will be a quiet night. We are dry camping again and we enjoy being in the wilderness.
Tomorrow we’ll be back in the U.S (Alaska). The roads should improve. We also have to check on the forest fire that is burning between Tok and Fairbanks. We know the road isn’t closed, but there were delays and we want to stay informed.
Although the drive was really hard, we are in a beautiful place and it was a good day!
Pictures: The Muffin, 1st glimpse of Kluane Lake, Kluane Lake, Kluane river Overlook, Sample of the bad road.
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