Fun in Juneau

Another beautiful day. We hung out at camp doing some of our maintenance chores and bills. We had lunch in our little gazebo and Ken read for a while and I planned our side strip to Sitka. About 3PM we went to Jerry’s Seafood & Meat Packing to get some fresh fish. The deckhand on our Tracy Arm tour told us about this place. We got fresh Halibut Cheeks - which are suppose to be the best part, homemade salami, Spot Prawns, and crab dip. Now we have enough to hold us for a while!

After putting the fish in the fridge we headed into Juneau’s historic downtown. Here we joined the rest of the folks from the 4 cruise ships that are docked today. The place looks like a shopping mall 2 days before Christmas! We found a corner table on the “Flight Deck” over looking the docks and had a local beer and people watched. We met a couple from Orlando who were cruising and talked for a while. While we were on the dock several float planes landed and pulled up to the docks to load people for tours.

Leaving the deck we walked up S. Franklin St. past the gift, jewelry, and T-shirt shops. Wandering through several shops we saw lots of beautiful art work made out of soapstone and mammoth bone. Some how we were able to refrain from purchasing them.

Soon it was time for dinner so off to the famous Red Dog Saloon. This is a landmark so we couldn’t miss it. Entering through the swinging bar doors we were standing on an old sawdust floor with bar tables, stools, and packed with people. A guy was sitting up front singing old standards (40’s,50’s, 60’s). We found a table, ordered beers and Ninilchick Sandwiches (salmon & cole slaw in a wrap). We were the only ones eating and were a little nervous until we remembered all these folks were on ships and didn’t need to eat! While eating we met a couple from Pensacola who were celebrating their 50th wedding anniversary. They were fun.

After a while we roamed the shops some more. Our last stop was Merchants Mall for ice cream and then sat in Marine Park watching folks return from their tours. It was time to go.

Back at camp we got ready for our trip tomorrow, watched TV and called it a day.

Pictures: (right to left) - Our Spruce Meadow site, Camp gazebo, Juneau cruise ships, Red Dog Saloon, Downtown Juneau, Tram Car over Juneau

St Therese - Peace and Serenity

Today we packed a picnic and took Glacier Highway to “the end of the road” (where else…) The highway runs from Juneau 40 miles along the Gastineau Channel to Echo Cove where it ends. We used our “Milepost” book as it gave a mile by mile description of the route. Once we passed the village of Auke Bay we were out of the city but not in back country. There are many residences as we follow the road along the channel to our left and forested hills on our right. Coming over a rise we got our first glimpse of the Chilkat Mountain Range across the Saginaw Channel. It’s spectacular. These are high peaked mountains and they are blanketed with snow. We stopped at a pull off and then continued on.

Our 1st stop was the Shrine of St Therese. As we turned into the parking lot we weren't really sure what was here other than a chapel. We parked and followed a gravel path along the coastline through blooming spring gardens. There were 3 circular gardens and the rock wall in each held bronze plaques with the Stations of the Cross - it was very spiritual and peaceful here. We sat on a marble bench at the end of the path looking out on the water and mountains and just appreciated the serenity. It was really emotional.

From the garden we followed another path which took us out to an island with an amazing stone chapel. The shrine serves as a retreat and has small cabins, a pretty prayer labyrinth made of stones, and a memorial garden. The shrine is a very beautiful place.

Moving up the road we drove several loop roads that took us to small marinas and then back to the highway. Driving through Eagle Harbor Recreation Area there were several groups of elementary school kids having classes with the forest rangers. At another turnout we watched a couple of humpback whales blowing and flapping in the channel. As we turned into another recreation area there was someone fishing the Peterson Creek. This is the 1st fisherman we’ve seen. Driving through the marina at Eagle Beach we saw what we thought was a Woodpecker, but we didn‘t know what kind. Coming to the end of the road we saw another car stopped in the road - which usually means ‘animal sighting’. The driver told us there was a Black Bear on our side of the road in the trees, but we never saw him.

We found Echo Cove and sat on the point to enjoy the view. Seeing the bear so close and we wanted to picnic we decided to go back to one of the recreation areas we had passed earlier. Back up the road we pulled into a pull off next to the water watching whales, seals, and mountains.

Back at camp we cooked more of the shrimp we got in Petersburg. It was a nice day.

Pictures:Chilkat Mountains, Along Glacier Highway, Path at St Therese, Shrine Garden, View from shrine garden, Chapel, Inside chaple, Prayer Labrynth

Touring Tracy Arm

Up at 6AM so we can be on board our tour boat by 7:30. We're going on a tour of Tracy Arm which is a large fjord with twin glaciers at the end. The Adventure Bound with Cap’t Steve will take us 50 miles southeast of Juneau. They had coffee ready as we left the dock in the cool morning air. Annie & Thomas will be our crew and there are several other folks on board.

We motor down the Gastineau Channel and into Stephens Passage which provides spectacular mountain views and we watch the shoreline for wildlife. It’s a gorgeous morning and we’re standing on the back deck. Off to our left is a point of land thick with Sitka Spruce and a rocky ledge… it is literally covered with Bald Eagles! There are so many in the trees their white heads look like Christmas ornaments.

We pass 2 cruise ships heading for Juneau. Turning out of Stephens Passage and into Holkum Bay there are magnificent sheer walls of granite on both sides of us. We are entering the fjord and the walls are so high you feel like you will fall over backward to see the top. As we sail further up the bay there was a cruise ship in front of us. We sailed around them as they unfortunately were too big a ship to go any further. While they turned around we headed for the glaciers and there are lots of bergs floating past us now. Capt Steve told us these are some of the largest bergs in Alaska. We dodged, bumped and slid our way over and around. Now inside the ’arm’ beautiful glacial valleys appear and we think about being able to go and explore them. They look very mysterious. The Cap’t took us past spiraling waterfalls and right into and through others. As we looked at the rock walls we saw a Mountain Goat on the side of a sheer wall walking like it was on a sidewalk!

We sailed our way up the “arm” through jade green waters to Big Sawyer Glacier which is the bigger of the twins, but the ice hadn’t opened enough for us to get through. We could see the glacier but we continued on to Little Sawyer and were able to get within ¾ miles of it. It took 3 1/2 to 4 hours to reach the glacier. It was awesome and we saw a small calving, heard the splash and about 5 minutes later the wave reached our boat! Having lunch on the back deck the air is clear with the chill of the last ice age. We spent about an hour watching the glacier. In the distance there were Harbor Seals on the bergs closer to the glacier and we saw 2 through the binoculars. Every time you get close they slide off the berg and into the water…not cooperative at all.
We would have spent more time, but the ice was filling in and we had to go. On the way out a berg had just ‘rolled’ and it was a magnificent glacial blue with what looked like gold flecks which was the sun’s reflection. We could see the water running down the ridges.

This trip was unbelievable! Back up the Stephens Passage we could see Admiralty Island which is home to a very large Brown Bear population. You can only go out to the Island by boat or plane and during July & August you need permits. This time of year you won’t see many bears there as they are still sleeping…

The Capt called our attention to a humpback playing in the water and then it disappeared. A little further along another whale appeared in front of us. He was playing in the water, flapping it’s side flippers together and rolling, then it dived and we watched the tail disappear - suddenly the whale launched itself out of the water! It was heart stopping! Then he decided to roll on his back and raise it’s flippers slapping the water and making arcs in the air. He did this several time and then he dove--- and breached again! We were camera ready this time as Capt Steve maneuvered the boat closer. The whale entertained us for about 30 minutes and treated us to blow sounds and another breach - then quickly dove and disappeared. What a treat!

We pulled into dock about 6PM. Hungry we stopped at Pizzeria Roma again and then headed back to camp.

It was a fantastic day, the scenery, views, wildlife and feeling of wilderness is something we can’t describe in words.

Pictures:Adventure Bound , The 1st berg, Jakes Falls (2), Glacial Valley, Entering the fjord, Fjord sheer walls, mouth of fjord, spiraling falls, stranded berg, Big Sawyer glacier (2), ice relections, Little Sawyer, Jade Sea Falls, Leaving Tracy Arm, Icy colors, Holkum Bay diamonds, just rolled berg, glittering in the sun, 1st fluke, the wave, whale high five, the breach, arching flippers.

Beautiful Mendenhall

Nice day after the showers ended. We’re off to Donna’s for breakfast. This is just a little local place near the airport but good food and they serve breakfast all day.

From Donna’s we took a ride through Juneau and out to ‘the end’ of the road south of town. There’s only one cruise ship in today. We are starting to see more people and ships now and Juneau is a big port. Exploring this road we got a feel for the local flavor of housing. They are modest homes and obviously fishermen - a boat in every yard. However, Juneau is the capital of Alaska and ‘the end’ of the road is not where the politicians live. The Juneau area definitely has that city feel to it.

Driving back down Mendenhall Loop Rd we followed it to the Mendenhall Glacier. This is one glacier you can almost walk up to. The Visitor Center is really nice with an observatory, exhibits, and auditorium where we watched a great video on the Juneau Icefield and the glacier. Mendenhall is a tongue of ice reaching 12 miles from Juneau Icefield to Mendenhall Lake. It’s ice reaches 100 to 1800 feet deep and is more than 1.5 miles wide.

Leaving the center we took a path to “Photo Point”. The park ranger was there and explained about the Arctic Terns that were nesting there. They are fantastic birds and they hover in mid air. These birds have two summers each year as they leave their northern home on the oceans of Antarctica and then return. This trip is about 44,300 miles each year! We watched them, enjoyed the glacier view.

Next we took a path leading to the glacier and beautiful Nugget Falls. The ice bergs floating in the lake were amazing. Glacial ice has a unique crystalline structure that absorbs and reflects light, giving the ice its blue color. The most intense color is found in crevasses and when ice breaks from the face of the glacier. At the end of the path we could walk right up to the waterfalls. The power of the melting water coming out of the rocks was deafening. Up close the glacier colors and formations are unbelievable. The glacier calved yesterday, but nothing today.

There was a notice along the trail that a Sow and 2 cubs had been seen on the upper trail, just above us, the day before. On the way back we sat on a log and listened to the sound of nature. Then we went in search of a personal size berg in the lake. Ken fished one out from the edge. It was so clear and he said it weighed about 40 lbs, it was also very sharp.

We put the berg back in the lake and went back to the Visitor Center. The cruise buses are arriving and a couple of young men were sitting outside on a rock eating sandwiches and the ranger had to tell them to eat inside because of the bears. You really have to pay attention!

We really enjoyed the glacier. Back home we had dinner and called it a day.

Pictures:View across Mendenhall Lake, Approaching Mendenhall, Ken on glacier path, Mendenhall Waterfall, Water and glacier, Mendenhall up close, Kens berg

A Golden History

Juneau is an unexpected blend of fishermen, teachers, legislators, union workers, and frontier entrepreneurs. It also has a golden history. Harrisburg, was Juneau's original name before Richard Harris fell out of favor with the locals and they turned to his co-founder Joe Juneau. In 1880, the two prospectors relied on Chief Kowee of the Tlingit to guide them tot he mouth of Gold Creek where they discovered gold. This was Alaska's first major strike... and the rush was on!

Rainy and showery most of the day. Today is ‘free day’ at the local museums so we decided to check them out. First we had to plan our tours, so we went to talk with Corinna who runs the park and can assist with tour bookings. She wasn’t there so we left a message with Linda (her mom) and said we would check back later.

We drove down Mendenhall Loop Rd and turned onto Egan Drive towards Juneau to the state museum. Egan Drive follows the Gasteneau Channel and has views of Douglas Island which is not part of Juneau. The channel area provides wetland refuge for many species of birds. We passed many of the helo and seaplane tour locations and then turned onto Whittier Ave and parked in the museum lot. It has several exhibit rooms and we learned about the Athabascans and Inuits and saw Eskimo masks. They had a section on Alaska statehood, the Russian history, and of course famous Alaskan politicians. A section on animals had displays of Archiepelago wolves, eagles and bears. We still think the museum in Wrangell was the best.

Leaving town we crossed the Gastineau Channel to Douglas Island and followed the road 11 miles to the end. We had some great views of the Mendenhall Glacier and watched the fishing boats. The sun is starting to peek through - then more showers. We found the entrance to Eaglecrest Ski area and followed the road up the mountain to the base lodge. The area is very woodsy and muskeg covers a lot of the ground. There are a lot of walking and Nordic ski trails all over the mountain. The mountain still has snow on top and they run a zip line here in the summer.

Back down the mountain and across the bridge we found our way to Safeway and bought the Alaskan Value Saver book ($99). Corinna suggested we get this as it will save us hundreds of dollars on tours. It has coupons for places all over the state and can be used for hotels, campgrounds, and attractions.

Back at camp we relaxed and cooked pork chops on the grill. Corinna arrived with good & bad news. We can do a Tracy Arm tour tomorrow, but Glacier By doesn’t open until May 31. We’re disappointed, but there will be other things… there is lots more to see and do.

Journey to Juneau

Got ready to leave and drove to the grocery in Petersburg to get lunch to take on the boat. There are tons of people around and Nordic Drive is all blocked off for the Little Norway Festival. Most people are in Norwegian dress of some type. Women celebrate their Norwegian heritage by wearing costumes that use the design of Solveig Simonsen, a Norwegian dressmaker, who came to Petersburg in the 1950’s. Several of the men were dressed as Vikings with horned helmets and clothed in animal skins. The Pickled Herring Band was setting up in the center of town where they would play all day. Vendors, food, fish derby, and a parade are all scheduled throughout the weekend. Many people fly in for the festival each year and not all of them are of Norwegian decent. The festival continues to celebrate Norway’s Constitution Day, which led to Norway’s eventual independence from Sweden. We skirted the main town area as we did not want to get stopped by Vikings and asked why we were not wearing a Viking T-shirt…(it could mean being hauled off to jail for an undetermined amount of time)… and we had a ferry to catch.

The ferry we are on today is different. The Fairweather is like a catamaran and goes 32 knots an hour. What normally takes 8 hours will only take us 4 today. The inside is beautiful, comfy recliner chairs, big windows, tables and a great deck on the back. The ship sailed across Frederic Sound and picked up speed. The ship is almost empty today. We sat on the back deck for a while and enjoyed the trip through Stephens Passage. The scenery is phenomenal. Buck River Wilderness is on our right and Admiralty Island on our left. We saw some spouts from whales and Ken saw a fluke as one dived under. Hope we see more!

About 14 miles from Juneau we approached Auke Bay. We can see the amazing Mendenhall Glacier from the ship. After docking at the terminal we made our way to Spruce Mountain RV Park and checked in. We met Corinna, who we had been talking with since last December.

As we were leaving the office we met a great couple - Sabrina & Alan from California. They’ve been in Alaska for 3 weeks and gave us a lot of pointers and input on great campgrounds and local restaurants. They drove up and will be taking the ferry back.

We drove around the park and chose site 18. The park is nestled on another edge of the Tongass National Forest. We have a little gazebo and table at our site. The sites are bigger than most parks and pretty level.

Next on the list was to check out Juneau. We are about 9 miles out of town as there are no campgrounds near the city. We decided to try Pizzaria Roma one of Sabrina's suggestions. We walked in and they were there. We had a great dinner together and have 2 new friends. He's a navy lifer and she has a great background in law.

After dinner we went back to camp, watched TV and went to bed.

Another great day.

Pictures: Leaving Petersburg, Lounge on M/V Fairweather, Across Frederic Sound, Back Deck of Fairweather, Through Stephens Passage (2), 1st view of Mendenhall Glacier