OOOOOOOH!!

This morning we decided to head back to the Dean Creek Elk Viewing area to see if we could get a closer picture of the elk. We stopped at a pull off where we found 2 herds grazing close to the road. While we were watching the elk another couple joined us. They were local people and we talked with them for a while.

Next we drove up 101 back to Florence to visit the famous Oregon Dunes. The coastal range has been rising for millions of years. The dunes have been pushed upward by the incredible force of colliding tectonic plates. Wind and rain grind river rocks into sand which is deposited on ocean shores. Strong tides and winds from the pacific blow the sand into undulating ridges along the 50 miles of beach from Florence to Coos Bay. The dunes bring to mind images of Lawrence of Arabia.

Today we'll do something we've never done.. we're going Sand Railing on the dunes! Sand Dunes Frontier was our destination. The Sand Rail soon pulled up with our driver Darren, who has been driving the dunes for 19 years. We suited up in our rain jackest with hoods up, goggles, and Darren belted us into our buggy. He asked if we wanted the "fun" ride - we said "of course!" Off we went and for the next half hour we went up and over 100-200 ft dunes, down sheer drop offs like a roller coaster, back up and then along the edge until we swooped down again. We stopped at the top of a 300 ft plus dune, the tallest dune in the recreation area to take pictures. Sprinkled among the dunes are tree islands. These are remnants of larger forests that were covered by sand. These isolated stands look like they're floating in a sea of sand. It was spectacular looking over the crests to the ocean. Then we were off again curling up dunes at a 45 degree angle and then back down again. We plunged down another dune nose first causing us both to go "oooooh"! What a blast - one of the best things we've done so far on the trip.

Back at the car - a little sandy - we drove north of Florence to Hecta Light. The road passed through a tunnel that took us through a granite rock outcropping before arriving at the turnoff for Hecta Head. The light sits on the 1,000 foot high Hecta Head, 205 feet above the ocean. This light is rated the strongest on the Oregon coast and can be seen from 21 miles off shore. We walked the path from the parking lot to the lighthouse high on a cliff and watched the waves break against the rocks and headlands below. They were phenominal spraying everywhere. This lighthouse is famous and you've probably seen it on calendars.

We headed back to camp. It was a beautiful day and we had lots of fun!

Pictures: Elk, View of Oregon Dunes Recreation Area, Our Sand Rail, Sitting on Top of Dune, Sand Railing, Trail to Hecta Light, Lighthouse from Keepers home, Hecta Light, Us on the Hecta Headlands, Evening Light on Hecta Head

Umpqua River Scenic Byway

We had breakfast outside at the picnic table overlooking the harbor this morning. It was sunny and we haven't been able to have breakfast outside for a long time. Leaving camp we drove up Salmon Harbor Rd and took a left up a hill to Umpqua Light. The light, on the south side of the bay, has a 65 foot tower that overlooks the sand dunes from 165 feet. There was a great viewing platform and we looked over the dunes to the ocean. We looked for gray whales - none -. Leaving the Umpqua Point we passed Lake Marie and its 1 mile walking trail, we decided to keep going.

Taking 101N to Rte 38 E in Reedsport we followed the Umpqua River Scenic Byway past Dean Elk Creek Viewing Area. A three mile section of Rte 38 has two specific viewing areas with several observation pull offs. This is the year round residence for a herd of about 100 Roosevelt elk. In the spring the females and young are easily seen. The males stay separate until the fall rut. We were able to see some of the herd in a meadow just off the road.

The scenic byway is a gorgeous ride with the river on our left and fern covered rock walls to our right. Water from melting snow and all this rain cascade down the rock walls making natural waterfalls. There are farmhouses along the road on the hillsides with pastures that roll up to them. We arrived in Elkton which is a surprisingly cosmopolitan village. This historic community is where the Hudson's Bay Company founded Fort Umpqua in 1832. We had lunch in town and then continued through small vineyards and through the beautiful Umpqua Valley. Elkton is a town of about 200 people with 4 wineries (my kind of place...).

Driving through small towns like Sutherlin, Kellogg, and Remote which have great character and have kept the simple country ambience. Soon we connected to Interstate 5S and followed it to Roseburg and then turned onto Rte 42W which would take us back to Coos Bay. Rte 42 is the Winery Tour route but we didn't see many wineries along the way. Driving through the Coquille River Valley we experienced more hale showers. The pastures and low lands were flooded and cattle were standing on small patches of high ground near the barns.

We got back to camp and watched TV for a while. The drive today was really beautiful and reminds us what this trip is all about... experiencing the byways of the U.S.

Pictures: Elk in meadow at Dean Elk Creek Viewing Area, Umpqua Light, View from Umpqua Light Platform (2)

Salmon Harbor

Driving up the Pacific Coast Highway (101 N) through huge puddles and pea size hale. We cross over the Conde McCullough Memorial Bridge which is frozen and covered with hale - argh - Once across the bridge we come into Oregon Dunes National Recreation Area. The dunes start right after we cross the bridge and is mixed with forests and beautiful views. We pass Clear Lake and roads such as Foggy Height (very appropriate) on our way to Winchester Bay.

Our drive was short this morning and we pulled into Winchester Bay RV in early afternoon. We picked a nice site on the Salmon Harbor side of the park. We can see the boats and lights from Winchester Bay across the harbor. The ocean is on the back side of the park and we can hear the waves crashing against the sea wall (best of both worlds!). It all began in Winchester Bay, long before Europeans came to the Oregon coast, the mouth of the Umpqua River was home to ancestors of the Siuslaw, Lower Umpqua, and Coos Indians. First interaction with the Indians came in the 16th century and by the end of the 18th century trading had been established. Winchester Bay was initially a trading post known as West Umpqua. Later in the 1950's Salmon Harbor was developed to protect Winchester Bay from the Pacific Ocean. Winchester Bay is popular due to it's outdoor activities, great seafood restaurants, and access to the tallest coastal dunes in North America.

Once we were settled in we drove up Rte 101 to Florence. It's raining but we decided to go to Old Town located on the Siuslaw River. Parking on the gravel main street we found Mo's. This is a well known seafood restaurant in the area and came highly recommended by someone we met in Coos Bay. They are well known for their "New England Clam Chowder". We are going to hunt for the best Northwest Clam Chowder...Ken had Slumgullion (chowder with shrimp) and I had oyster stew. The stew was good the chowder...well lots of potatoes. We walked Old Town which is full of canneries, fish processing plants, shops and lots of restaurants. Before leaving we stopped in a candy store and spent some time talking with the owner. All of these little towns are much busier in the summer but we get to meet the real locals this time of year and they are terrific folks.

Leaving Old Town Florence we drove back to camp. Before turning into the RV park we decided to explore Salmon Harbor Rd. It runs along the ocean and ends in the beginning of the sand dunes. Many of the low areas are filled with water but there are still folks on ATV's running the trails along the dunes.

To cold and raw to be outside so we enjoyed our pate, crackers, cheese and fruit for dinner while we watched TV.

Pictures: Along Salmon Harbor Rd (2), Rainy dunes