Wandering Through Ketchikan

We are boondocking in the forest so we have no electricity (unless we run the generator). Boy was it dark last night and absolutely silent. It was wonderful.

Up early this morning to make the most of our day.

We took a mile hike on the trail that goes around Ward Lake. It's in the 40's and beautiful. The path took us through forest and a boggy area that came out onto a stone beach. There were groups of school age kids walking the beach and sitting in the beach huts where some park rangers had a nice fire going. A lady was standing on the beach next to the path and we asked what was going on. She was a teacher and told us the park rangers do programs for the kids at different times during the year. Some programs are on wildlife and others on fauna. Wow what a great experience for the kids. We continued on down the path and a beautiful Stellar Jay followed us. He sat on a branch about a foot away! We watched each other for a while and then he flew off. It was a nice walk and now we are ready to explore.

Leaving Signal Creek (campground) we turned right towards Lake Harriet Hunt. We are in the Tongass National Forest which stretches more than 500 miles along Southeast Alaska's Inside Passage. Seventeen million acres leaves plenty of room for more than 2000 species of plants, 150 or more species of birds and mammals and of course us. This is the largest national forest in the United States. Something like 14% of the world's total rainforest is in the forest and all that water makes the Tongass an ecological wonderland.

We turned up the 1st gravel road we found and saw Sitka blacktailed deer as we drove along Ward Creek. The road ended shortly in a gravel parking lot at a dam and another lake. We think it was the town reservoir. The forest is full of Sitka Spruce, Red Cedar, and Red Alder trees, but no leaves here, we are back to spring buds. We back tracked to the main road and followed it until it turned into a narrow gravel road. As we climbed along a ridge we got into rain and then sleet. There were mountains to our left and soon the road narrowed and we came to a gatehouse. We had no idea where we were but it was beautiful. A guy (Dugan) and his dog was sitting in an old lime green pickup that used to have a US Forest Service logo on it. We pulled up and he got out of the truck and explained the land past the gate was owned by Natives and you needed a permit to enter. Then he asked us where we were gong. We talked for a while and he gave us pointers on what to see. We asked about bears in the area and he told us they are just waking up but most were seen on the other side of the island. Finally he told us how to get to Lake Harriet Rd. Off we went. Lake Harriet was really pretty and we could see Thornton Mountain. We decided to have a picnic lunch there.

After lunch we drove back to the Tongass Hwy and went north. The clouds have lifted and we can see the mountains. Next stop is Totem Bight Park. This is a great place that explains about the Native cultures. In the early 1900's with the growth of non-native settlements in Southeast Alaska, and the decline of a barter economy, Natives moved to communities where they could find work. Their villages and totem poles were left behind and soon were overgrown and eroding. In 1938 the Forest Service started a program to salvage and reconstruct these large cedar monuments. They hired carvers from among the older Natives and two things happened. Young artisians learned the art of carving totem poles, and totems which were left behind were repaired or duplicated.

The heritage of the Northwest Coast Tribes place an important part in the Ketchikan lifestyle. 20% of the residents can trace their Alaskan heritage back to the Tlingit, Haida and Tsimshian tribes.

There were many totems in the park and we learned why sometimes there are carvings at the bottom and top and nothing in the middle. This can show the rank or stage of someone in a clan or that they have traveled a long way. We learned the totems describe stories and events that happend in the different clans. Sometimes the various clans and communities interpreted the totems differently. Ketchikan has the world's largest collection of totem poles.

The parks paths follow the shores of the sparkling blue Tongass Narrows. A Bald Eagle lazily flew over head and landed right on top of a totem. This was the first Alaskan Bald Eagle we've seen! We sat on a bench and watched him and soon there was a pair that hovered above us and then flew off. They are really beautiful birds.

Leaving the park we continued up the road to Settler's Cove. This is the end of the highway. We took the Lunch Falls trail through the rainforest and down to the beach. We sat on a log and just enjoyed the view and serenity.

With all roads in Ketchikan covered we headed for town to return the video and then made a stop at Wal-Mart. (Yup they have one...)

Our ride was beautiful today and we learned a lot about the Native culture . Ketchikan was really pretty.

Pictures: Path around Ward Lake, View from Ward Lake Path, Camp site at Signal Creek, Lake Harriett Road, Entrance to Totem Bight, Clan House (2), Eagle on top of totem, Lunch Falls Trail

Arriving in Ketchikan

Sunny morning and we were awake at 5AM, but stayed in our cabin until 6. No knock on the door but we were up so off to the cafeteria. Over coffee we learned we're 1 1/2 hours late so we spent some time back in the Observation Deck. The time passed quickly and we watched the approach to Ketchikan from the deck. As the ship approached through the Tongass Narrows the channel got narrower and narrower. As the channel sparkled like diamonds Ketchikan appeared before us.

The ferry docked and I drove up the ramp to wait for Ken to bring up the coach. I waited and waited and soon the two way radio crackled (we carry them when we drive separately) ... 'They forgot me' he says! He had to go find a crew member to direct him off the ship. Finally he rolled up the ramp.

Out of the terminal we turned left onto the Tongass Highway leading out of town and into Tongass National Forest. We have a campsite in the forest while we're in Ketchikan. The highway leads us out of the village and shipyards and into the forest which gets thicker and the views change to mountains. We followed the signs for Ward Lake and Signal Creek campground. We are in the rainforest and Ward Lake is right across from our camp site.

It's early Sunday morning and it didn't take us long to set up as we don't have any hook ups here. We have 2 days here so we decided to go into town and cover the south end of Ketchikan. As we drove out of the forest we saw 2 small deer just standing on the side of the road.

Surprisingly we easily found a parking space in town. Ketchikan is a scenic little town hugging the shores of coastal mountains and protected by waterways. Our first stop was the Visitor Center. When we opened the door it looked like it was under construction..huh... One of the guys working to set up the displays explained they weren't open for business yet. They open when the first cruise ship arrives 4 days from now. (What are we chopped liver?)

So we decided to roam around town on our own. The stores and Lumberjack Show were closed, but we enjoyed walking along the waterfront and looking at the historical themed gift shops without the bustling tourists. We followed the walking tour route through town and enjoyed the various totems. Soon we found ourselves on the border of town where the famous Creek Street is situated. Between 1903 and 1953 bordellos lined the creek, today it's lined with shops and restaurants. We wandered along the boardwalk sidewalk looking at the interpretive signs detailing the racy history of the area.

Time for lunch at the Pioneer Cafe - Ketchikan's greasy spoon. After good bowls of chowder we were off to the Saxman Native Village. The park features the Beaver Clan House of the Tlingit (Klink-it) moiety (group). The clan house was closed and we roamed the grounds enjoying the totem carvings that lined the property. They are really facinating. The road to the park is lined with various Totems and we walked around the grounds marveling at the carvings. It's sleeting now so we walked back to the car.

We drove south on the Tongass Highway to the end of the road. The highway winds along George's Inlet and past Ruby Beach. We stopped to enjoy the views and watch some fishing boats. Further on we passed a beautiful natural waterfall created by the melting snow.

Heading back to camp we stopped at Safeway and got a video for tonight. It was a good day, but we wish there was more open, but there's lots to explore.

Pictures: Historic downtown Ketchikan, Ketchikan harbor, Creek Street (2), Entrance to Saxman Totem Park, Saxman Clan House, Saxman totems, Waterfall on S Tongass Hwy